Freewheelin' with Tom and Mats

Welcome to our page! We're two recent Dartmouth grads who are bicycling from Denmark to Greece this summer. To keep track of our adventures, check for postings from time to time.

Wednesday, August 30, 2006

SuperFast update

Hello readers! We're in Bari, Italy, about to catch a ferry over to Igoumenitsa, Greece. Apologies for the lull in updates since Caux. It's been tough recently to find time at a computer. There are lots of great stories to tell and new pictures to post, which we'll likely get around to the second week of September once we arrive in Thessaloniki and are settled in at the Farm School. The ferry boards soon so I have to head back to the port. Thanks for continuing to follow along.

Mats

Wednesday, August 23, 2006

8/23 and 8/24 - Rome

8/22 - Todi to Rome

8/21 - San Quirico d'Orcia to Todi

A view of the Umbria countryside seen from way up in Todi

8/20 - Florence to San Quirico d'Orcia

8/19 - Florence

Florence from Piazza Michelangelo


Arno River at sunset

8/18 - Vallicella di Monzuno to Florence

8/17 - Revere to Vallicella di Monzuno

8/15 - Trento to Lago di Garda

Lago di Garda

8/16 - Lago di Garda to Revere

8/14 - Nauders to Trento

Our longest ride of the trip (190 km), and one of the best. After descending into Italy by the Reschen Pass (1560 m), we spent almost the whole day on a bike path running through apple orchards and along the Adige river. We made it to Trento in time for an all you can eat dinner.

Italia!

The 14th century bell tower of a flooded village rises out of the Reschensee

Down in the valley after descending from Reschen Pass


A cloud-high monastery

Ruins of a castle in the mountains

The Adige river, flowing toward Trento

8/13 - Bludenz to Nauders

A view from the top of the Arlberg Pass (1793 m) in Austria

8/12 - Sattel to Bludenz

A lake along the way in Switzerland


Hammering up a ridiculously steep hill

Passing through lovable Liechtenstein

8/11 - Interlaken to Sattel

8/10 - Caux to Interlaken

Tuesday, August 15, 2006

More random thoughts

So we finally made it to Italy where the sun is always shining, but it wasn't exactly the Dolce Vita between here (Trento) and Arles (where I left you last). There was a lot of sweat, rain, and Bailey's Irish Cream between here and there and it's not a tale for those with a low tolerance. To start, I'll give you the definition of shambles

Shambles: A state of existence in which one climbs 6000 foot passes in the rain for a week while wearing trash bags on one's feet and while during said period one stops along the shoulder of a major highway to rub lubricating cream on the only warm area of one's body (technically known as the grundel) where the constant friction with the seat has caused an unending burning sensation. At this emergency stop (in order to truly qualify as shambles) a car full of Japanese tourists must come screeching to a halt and a man with a camera must jump out, give one a thumbs-up and gleefully take a long string of photos of oneself in this compromised position. Furthermore, one's attempts to avoid mountain passes in this freezing weather and take longer, flatter routes must ultimately fail because the rain has washed out the roads in the valleys and one must ride farther and climb more than in the original plan.

To my great joy, we finally returned to German-speaking areas in Switzerland, Lichentstein and Austria and I couldn't resist the temptation to ask the first guy I got into a conversation with if he remembered the name of the group that played that great song: YMCA. He of course reminded me and was completely bewildered when I walked away in a state of pure glee. What a helpful fellow...

You've probably noticed that Mats has been posting a lot of pictures. I have been falling behind and I'd like to remedy the situation by posting some of my pictures. However, they don't have the neccessary hardware at this Internet post, so you'll have to make do with my descriptions of some of the better photos.

In Paris I took some wonderful shots of Notre Dame, but my dream of getting a picture taken with the hunchback was shattered when we found out that he was at the Mayo clinic for the week getting some arthritis treatments. We were however able to get pictures with the lesser-known harelip of Saint-Chapelle and clubfoot of the Sacre Coeur. These pictures are truly treasures and I can't wait to post them.

Now that we're in Italy I've also convinced Mats (albeit reluctantly) to help me play a game with the camera that I like to call "Fashion Police". It takes two people to do it well and I'm grateful to have an accomplice. To play, we position ourselves in an area with a lot of pedestrian traffic with one person acting as sentry and the other as sniper. Last night, for example, I sat on a bench on the main street in Trento while Mats acted as sentry from his vantage point by the fountain in the piazza. When an Italian guy with a really bad haircut came his way he would give me the secret sign and I would get my camera ready. The goal is to capture on film these remarkably awful fashions without being sighted. Thus, you need to line up the target with something reasonably photo-worthy so he won't know that he is the real reason for you taking the picture. This can be tricky, but I really want to have proof of how strange the haircuts are here. Last time I returned from Italy I found it difficult to describe what I had seen, but now I can collect them all on film from the mohawk-mullet to the buzzcut with lightning patterns. Even more shocking is the normal-looking Italian women attached to these guys. Now I know that some of you more understanding and compassionate readers will think I'm culturally insensitive and shallow. "I'm sure they have great personalities." or "Every culture has its own sense of beauty." you'll say. However, I know plenty of dogs with great personalities, but I don't take them out to dinner. Furthermore, Italians have the same exposure to Western style magazines and pop culture outlets as the rest of Europe, so why should their sense of beauty be so different. Something is going on here and maybe with a little more Fashion Police I'll be able to get to the bottom of it.

Wednesday, August 09, 2006

8/8 and 8/9 - Caux

What amazing rest days! After basically collapsing into the driveway of the Sandoz family at the end of a ridiculously steep climb up to Caux, we were treated to some truely warm hospitality. Over the past two and a half days, we've most likely put on about 10 lbs each. Fondu, ricolettes, fresh fruit and ice cream, chantilly and double cream (Swiss specialties), and some outstanding home cooking top the food highlights. The 6 km climb from Montreux to Caux begins at 300 m and ends up at 1100 m. The next day, we took a little train a bit higher up to Rochers de Naye (2000 m). The view from there is magnificent. There are also some reindeer and marmots up there. Today we visited Gruyere, where the wonderful Gruyere cheese comes from. We also visited the old castle there. Then after lunch, we visted Chateau Chillon on Lac Léman, perhaps the most touristed castle in Switzerland. It's a beautiful place. Tomorrow we get to descend that brutal climb (yahoo!), embarking on our way to Interlaken, more of Switzerland and then Lichtenstein, Austria, and Italy.

Lac Leman seen from Chateau Chillon

On the train ride up to Rochers de Naye

Atop Rochers de Naye

Morklay's Tooth

A view from Chateau Gruyere

Us with the wonderful Sandoz family

8/7 - Chamonix to Caux (Montreux)

Farewell France! Hello Switzerland! After ascending two cols in the morning, we cruised from Martigny to Montreux in the nice, flat Rhone river valley. Our day didn't end there, however. Once in Montreux, we successfully attempted the most outrageous climb of the trip. Our host family lives in Caux, which is 6 km due vertical, basically, from Montreux. Imagine climbing the side of a building on bicycle and that will give you a sense of what it was like. The gradient on the Chemin de Caux reaches over 20% at times and, totting about 40 lbs on our bikes, that was definitely the toughest stretch of road we've covered so far. Of course, with our burly muscles bristling, we pushed on through, to the horror and amazement of a bunch of students at the hotel management school along the way who stood there with their mouths gaping wide open as we pressed up the steepest part of the road in slow motion, suffering mightly, panting heavily, and rolling on upwards with bullets of sweat gushing forth in raging streams. We spent the following two days with the Sandoz family, who treated us to some great meals and showed us around the Montreux area. It was incredibly fun and restorative. Read on!

About to descend into the Rhone river valley

On the way up to Caux - bring it!

8/6 - Chamonix & le Brévent

After biking from Megève to Chamonix yesterday, today we hiked le Brévent (2525 m). It was cloudy off and on, completely white for a while, but the view was spectacular at times. On a clear day you can see Mont Blanc (4807 m) very well from the peak. We stayed at a great campsite and in the evening watched the new Pirates of the Caribbean movie (in English with French subtitles) at the local theater. Every English speaking person in Chamonix must have been there. Tomorrow, we leave France, en route to Montreux, Switzerland.

Looking up at le Brévent

The two of us at le Bel Achat (2100 m), on the way up to le Brévent

Views from the hike

Tuesday, August 08, 2006

8/4 la Chambre to Megève

More rain!

Handy-dandy homemade rain shoes

8/3 - Bourg d'Oisans to la Chambre

Climbed the Col du Glandon (1924 m) today and camped at la Chambre, the town before the Col de la Madeleine (2000 m). For the first time in the last month and a half, it rained during the day. Up in the mountains it's chilly in the rain, which made the descent off the Col du Glandon freezing cold. A little hot coco and Bailly's kept us warm in the evening.

Views on the way up to the Col du Glandon

8/1 - Corps to Bourg d'Oisans + l'Alpe d'Huez

What an extraordinary day. After a brisk morning ride to Bourg d'Oisans, we set up our tents and rested for an evening ascent of the Alpe d'Huez, a famous climb in le Tour de France. It's twenty-one switchbacks and up, up, up. There was paint all over the road encouraging on the best of the best. The cool evening air made for great climbing conditions.

Commencing the morning's ascent

Getting up high

Some of the INSANE switchbacks on the climb up l'Alpe d'Huez

Colorful road paint

Views from l'Alpe d'Huez


Glory

7/31 - Serres to Corps

Nice riding today. Stayed at a campsite on Lac du Sautet. No wonder the town is named Corps. It's a steep climb up there.

On the road to Corps

Went through there

Heading that way

Lac du Sautet

7/30 - Bédoin to Serres

7/29 - Mont Ventoux

We did it! Took the hard way, from Bédoin to the summit, then continued on D974 descending into Maucelène then finishing the loop back at our campsite in Bédoin. We began the 21 km climb at 6:00am to avoid the midday heat. The road starts off at a pretty low gradient for the first several kilometers, then inclines sharply at the bend of Saint-Estève, winding through a forest at an average grade that never drops below 9%. Once you reach the Chalet Reynard at km 15, the steady steepness eases up a little, leaving you with a stunning view of the road to the summit: a wind-swept, rocky, bare, almost surreal place, so different from the forest below. After some hard pedaling and gritted teeth, we reached the summit. What a view from up there! With the sun still low in the sky, it was like watching the whole world wake up. Off to the south we could see towards Arles and the Mediterranean. Looking north, we could see an infinite field of mountains - the French Alps, where we would soon be heading. I love climbing roads by bicycle because I feel so incredibly alive at the top. Today's climb was one of the best ever.

Lonely at the top


The blessed summit signpost


All smiles


Mountains beyond mountains

7/28 - Arles to Bédoin

Today we biked from Arles to the foot of the awesome Mont Ventoux.

Approaching the beast


Mont Ventoux, here we come!